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Sunlight Soap, Borax and Tumble Polishing: Two Issues

Alternatives to Plastic Pellets as Tumbling Media: Reviewing the Advice – Part One

One of the issues facing rotary tumble polishers like myself is the use of “media” in a barrel. As RockTumbler.com puts it: Tumbling media has four functions: 1) it delivers grit to hard-to-reach rock surfaces; 2) it is used to cushion fragile rock materials during the tumbling process; 3) it is used to improve the tumbling action in the tumbler barrel; and 4) it is used as a filler to make up for lost [or inadequate] volume. An instruction booklet that comes with Lortone tumblers, “Professional Gemstone Tumbling”, refers on page 8 only to the use of plastic pellets as an option that can be considered, especially during the latter two stages of tumbling (see photos above right). My supplier, Rotorua Lapidary, stocks plastic pellets and offers them as an integral part of tumble polishing (see here). I have incorporated them into my tumbling routine, always using a few even with coarse grit, increasing the number with each stage. Item 8 in my Posts on What Do I Need to Start Tumble Polishing Stones Myself? And What Will It Cost Me? explains my use and storage of plastic pellets. I am very careful not to lose pellets down the drain when rinsing stones from the barrel, assiduously checking for them even where the water drains onto the ground outside my tumbling shed. However, once I became aware that tumbling especially with coarser grit actually wears away the pellets, no doubt releasing microscopic bits of plastic into the environment, I started to have second thoughts. I would like to minimise the amount of plastic I am responsible for in the environment. The following is my initial research into alternative tumbling media, looking at the advice and information given by various sources.

A good starting point for research on any tumble polishing matter is Steve Hart’s “Modern Rock Tumbling”, published in the USA in 2008, what I have called “the best rock tumbling book around”. Hart mentions the use of plastic pellets but states that he prefers ceramic media (see photos above). [He also notes that if he does use plastic pellets, it tends to be mainly for the later stages of tumbling, and he uses them only once before relegating them for use at earlier stages.] On pages 27-28, Hart writes: I have learned to use non-abrasive ceramic shapes in assorted sizes in order to make up for any errors in making up the “perfect” assortment of sizes and to act as a cushion for brittle batches. Use 1 to 2 tablespoons of ceramic shapes for every pound of rocks to start – then make up for lost volume with the shapes [if necessary]. I bought some of Hart’s ceramic shapes in 2016 from his Little Red Store located in California. I used them on a 320 grit load but thought they might have damaged a couple of stones. So I set them aside and have not yet come back to them, partly because the plastic pellets work so well. I have seen comments on the Facebook Group “New Zealand Lapidary, Rocks, Minerals, Fossils” by people who have found ceramic media to work effectively for them.

One rock tumbling retailer in the US, who runs the RockTumbler.com website, summarises the use of plastic pellets versus ceramic media here in the following way: Plastic pellets were the most popular tumbling media from the 1960s through the 1990s. They were used to cushion the stones and reduce bruising caused during tumbling. Today most people use ceramic media, but some have used plastic pellets for decades and still prefer them for rotary tumbling. Ceramic cylinders smooth the tumbling action and this results in less bruising of the stones. Ceramic media is also hard and more effective at grinding and shaping stones. When ceramic media became popular in the early 2000s, most people who tried it stopped using plastic media – because ceramics were more convenient. When using plastic pellets, the pellets can only be used with one size of grit – because tiny particles of grit become embedded within them. When using ceramic pellets, the rock mud and the grit rinse right off of the stones between tumbling steps. Here is the verdict of our customers: Today we sell over 10 times more ceramic media than plastic media. One way to expand our knowledge of the alternatives to plastic pellets is to ask, What did tumble polishers use before plastic pellets? It is worth consulting older literature for the answer.

Mainly in the first year of my tumble polishing, I managed to buy a few older books on tumble polishing, primarily from Great Britain, the United States and New Zealand. The following three paragraphs summarise the kind of advice given in some of them. Firstly, two New Zealand books: Lyn and Ray Cooper’s (1966) “New Zealand Gemstones” does not mention tumbling media when going through the various stages, though noting that smaller stones can be used as fillers. When discussing how to tumble softer stones, their section on obsidian states (pages 55-56): The polish consists of 2 lb of tin oxide, 1 lb of sugar and 1 cup of Rinso to each 10 lb of stones… Various overseas publications suggest the use of fillers such as plastic pellets for obsidian and soft stones; we do not recommend them. We have used plastic pellets and found that our Rinso and sugar additives give exactly the same, if not better results. Natalie Fernandez (1981), in “The New Zealand Rockhound”, also mentions “hard small beach stones” as a filler (page 126). On the same page, when discussing the polishing stage, she writes: Suitable fillers if required at this stage are saw-dust, shavings, rubber strips, even walnut shells and kitty litter. She goes on to add a note about role of sugar: Adding a little sugar slightly thickens the mixture which keeps the polishing material in suspension.

Next, to look at four British books (see photos above). In “Pebble Polishing” (1972), Edward Fletcher does not mention tumbling media when he provides instructions for the various stages of tumbling. However, for the polish stage, he mentions on page 69 that “wallpaper adhesive” can be used to prevent the cracking and scratching of stones when “any harsh banging or unrhythmical striking of pebbles together” is heard: Add a small amount of wallpaper adhesive to the mixture. The aim is to thicken the liquid in the barrel so that it cushions the fall of each pebble. Do not make the mixture too thick, otherwise the effectiveness of the polishing agent could be reduced. A thin cream consistency is ideal…It also increases the time you must allow for the polish to do its work because movement inside the barrel is reduced owing to the greater viscosity of the thickened liquid. A polishing stage of four days without paste might take seven days if paste is added. Secondly, Del Fairfield’s (1973) “Lapidary” mentions quite a range of tumbling media though for use only at the polish stage: It is customary to add a quantity of soft material to the barrel to provide cushioning during the polishing process and also to carry the polishing material. Various materials have their advocates, including leather, wood, hardboard, plastic granules, cork crumbs etc. Leather, for instance, should be heavy soling leather cut into 1/2-inch squares, and wood should be in 1/2-inch cubes. This additional material should be about one-third the volume of the stones, and when stones, cushions and slurry [tin oxide or cerium oxide] are all mixed up there should be an adequate coating over everything but not much spare slurry (page 16). Thirdly, V.A. Firsoff and G.I. Firsoff, in “The Rockhound’s Handbook” (1975), also recommend the use of “small pea-sized stones” which “ensure more intimate contact between the main charge [stones] and the abrasive” (page 181). They mention the use of “vermiculite” to cushion the stones at the polishing stage (page 182). Vermiculite is a hydrous phyllosilicate mineral (see Wikipedia), a mica-like mineral, and one of its commercial uses is as an addition to potting soil in containers, helping to improve drainage and moisture retention. Finally, Eric Shore includes the following comments in his “Lapidary for Pleasure and Profit” (1978) when discussing the polish stage: Additives either of cubes of hardwood, pieces of felt, or leather should be added to the charge [stones, polish powder and water] to give a cushioning effect whilst tumbling. These will help prevent chipping 0f sharper edges and points and also act as a polisher when rubbing against the stones. If leather is used, thick pieces are better than thin, as the latter tend to cling to the barrel and not mix with the stones (page 84). He also mentions that sawdust can be used, along with detergent, in the final burnish.

An Australian book published in 1965, Bill James “Collecting Australian Gemstones”, actually mentions “plastic granules” to prevent damage during polishing for “special” stones (page 97), but is silent on tumbling media for the routine stages for most stones (see photos above). A book published in the USA in 1977 mentions tumbling media, and gives mainly similar advice to the British authors reviewed above. “The Complete Book of Rock Tumbling” by Christopher Hyde and Richard Matthews has a section on “Buffering Agents”: These are used to carry the abrasive and also to prevent severe impact of one stone against the other… Such materials include wood chips, plastic pellets, sawdust, sugar and wallpaper paste… Old-timers often had their own favorite additives, which helped to make rock tumbling a mysterious art. These included products such as walnut shells, rice hulls and even banana peels. Although such things may work, we don’t recommend using them (pages 33-34).

In Part Two in this Series (not yet available), I will review some contemporary internet information on tumbling media.

Six Newly Polished Stones from Kakanui: Close-Up Flaws

Yesterday a 3lb barrel of stones from Kakanui’s Seadown Beach finished the tumbling process. This beach lies just two kilometres north of the town of Kakanui in North Otago. An introduction to the beach is provided in TumbleStone2. These 61 stones were previously tumbled in 400 silicon carbide grit, then some spent time tumbling in the finer 600 grit. I have found that jaspers and stones that consist of bands and patches will take a polish better if they have the extra tumble in the finer grit. The polish tumble lasted for just under 12 days, followed by a two day burnishing tumble in borax.

In general, close-up photos of polished stones can often reveal wondrous shapes and patterns and structures, turning a sometimes ordinary stone into an aesthetic treasure. But sometimes the close-ups can also reveal flaws that are not detected by the naked eye. I picked out six of the polished Kakanui stones to look at more closely in this Post. The ones chosen had caught my eye, and seemed to have polished well. However, it turns out to be a challenge to achieve a completely smooth polished stone. Closer examination reveals tiny rough patches or holes in all of them. Sometimes this is because of the fractured nature of the stone and my reluctance to reduce its size too much. Sometimes it is because I have not picked up the rough patches and holes when deciding to move the stone to the final polishing stage.

The first stone (photos below) caught my eye because of the white quartz segment within it which shows on both sides. It is the second largest of the six stones, four centimetres high and two-and-a-half centimetres at its widest. It is probably a quartzite. I have been following it eagerly through the various stages of tumble-polishing. It is perhaps the most smooth of the six featured in this Post, but the close-ups still reveal an occasional tiny scratch (see the first of the close-ups of the B Side).

The next stone is very dark in colour though it comes alive in bright sunlight – then it is apparent that there is silvery-grey hematite in it. The photos below make it appear less dark than it is in person. Maybe this is a jasper stone, perhaps related to the limonite prase that can be found along this part of the North Otago coast. I thought this stone was very smooth but it turns out to have a shallow hole in the middle of the B Side. It’s tempting to return the stone to a grit tumble and remove it, but that then reduces the stone’s size. It is currently three centimetres long and two centimetres wide.

The third stone is a similar size to the previous one, and is probably a jasper. I find this light-coloured form of jasper to be very appealing (see here for a Post with other examples of light-coloured jaspers from Kakanui). But, like many jaspers, it is difficult to obtain a smooth and shiny outcome. This stone came out of the tumbler looking and feeling very good, with just a little roughness associated with the dark vein on the A Side. However, the photos below show a number of tiny rough areas in different parts of the stone.

Some stones hide their tiny rough areas along their edges. “imperfections” The fourth stone is a bright and interesting one that has generally polished well. However, at the bottom of the close-up of Side B, a line of roughness is apparent. It is difficult to eliminate such roughness as further tumbling in grit tends to move such an edge back rather than cause it to disappear. In many ways it does not detract from the two main faces of the stone, but it is annoying when felt as a finger moves over the stone. This stone is approximately the same size as the second, third and fifth stones.

The fifth stone is of a slightly different shape, more elongated, and is likely to be a quartzite. It has patches and veins of a light brown, and a tiny green vein on Side B, providing visual interest. Once again, the stone appears smooth and polished but the close-ups reveal tiny “imperfections” not apparent to the naked eye.

The sixth and final stone is the largest, five centimetres high and four centimetres at its widest. It is a yellow quartzite, a fairly common stone on Kakanui’s Seadown Beach (see this Post for other examples). These quartzites are often fairly smooth already when found on the beach, but sometimes, after some tumbling, they can be found on close inspection to have tiny holes in them. Further tumbling will make the holes disappear but only at the cost of reducing the size of the stone. The close-up photos of the sixth stone reveal not only the tiny crystals in it but also a small number of tiny holes which are actually very difficult to discern with the naked eye.

In general, the flaws detected in the close-ups of these stones do not detract from an experience of them as interesting and smooth stones. But I feel the need to conduct my inspections between tumbling stages more carefully to try to improve the finished result. There are always exceptions of course, where a really interesting stone has a hole or crack too large to eliminate, and when I need to decide to live with less than a smooth polish in order to enjoy the stone.

“It’s About Time!” How Long Should I Leave My Stones Tumbling in a Barrel?

Time management is an important part of tumble polishing. There exist guidelines for how long each stage should take, whether it be grit or polish or burnish. For example, it is generally recommended that you tumble stones for about a week in each size of grit. I have followed this approach in my series of Posts “The Seven Stages in Tumble Polishing Stones”. I keep a tumbling log for each batch of stones, recording the day and time it starts. That way, I can see when the week is up.

However, it is also advised that some stones may need more than a week in, say, 220 or 400 grit. I sort through the stones after each tumble and decide which ones are ready to go to the next stage, which ones need to repeat the stage, and maybe which ones would benefit from going back a stage.

It is difficult to be patient, to wait until the time is up. I try hard to add an extra day or so to the usual week for most stages, but don’t always succeed. Also, I have slipped into the practice of burnishing with borax for only two or three days instead of a full week. And I have been thinking everything has been going ok.

Two things have given me pause recently, have forced me to rethink my approach to timing. The first was a batch of stones that I noticed were polished better than usual. It was a group of Kakanui stones that had just finished polishing in a 3lb barrel. I was pleasantly surprised to see how shiny they were.

I checked in my tumbling log. They had spent 10 days in pro-polish and six days in borax. The extra time was because I had been busy doing other things. I don’t actually know for sure if the extra shininess of the stones is due to some quirk of my current perception, or the couple of extra days in pro-polish, or the longer than usual time in borax. The pro-polish mixture had been used three times before, so the cause was not fresh polish.

I am now more of a mind to give the polishing tumble stage a bit more time and to make sure the burnishing tumble in borax goes at least close to the full week.

The second thing that has caused me to rethink timing issues was when I was recently asked a question by email about the use of grits and polishes for a larger barrel than usual. After providing information about different grits, different barrels and tumbling times for different stages, I added something I remembered when I visited an older and experienced tumble polisher about four years ago. I wrote: “He said that sometimes he simply puts stones into coarse grit and tumbles them for a few weeks – his notion is that the grit breaks down, just as the stones do, and the grit gets finer as the process proceeds, and he ends up with smooth stones at the end.” I have come across this idea a couple of other times, and it was recently repeated in a conversation I had a couple of days ago with another tumble polisher. I may experiment with this approach myself one day but, in the meantime, I am certainly encouraged to give my barrels more time.

There are exceptions to every guideline. There is an interesting stone I find at Kakanui that comes from an ancient fossilised seabed – it is also known as fossil hash. It is kind of grainy, not smooth or shiny. l have discovered that after up to a week in 400 grit, it feels smooth and waxy. Any longer doesn’t improve it and starts to reduce it in size significantly. Polishing doesn’t improve the stone at all, so it is at its best after the 400 tumble.

In this case, less time tumbling is the right thing to do. But this is an exception.

New Website for Rotorua Lapidary Supplies

This shop, at 1120 Eruera Street in Rotorua, known as the Rotorua Lapidary Rock and Mineral Store, is the dealer for Lortone rock tumblers and gemstone manufacturing machinery in New Zealand, having had this role for over 35 years. The store now has a new online shop. The former url http://www.rotorualapidary.co.nz takes you to the new website (or else it does not work). The new url is www.rockandgemstoneshop.co.nz. The shop is now called Rotorua Rock and Gemstone Shop. I have also come across another online presence at https://rotorua-lapidary-rock-and-mineral-supplies.business.site – this is just slightly different in layout.

I have referred to the old website many times on Tumblestone Blog as the shop is the source of my tumblers, grit, plastic pellets, etc. I will slowly replace the old website url with the new in these previous Posts. The Rotorua Shop provides great service and responds very promptly when anything is ordered from them. I have always been impressed with them.

UP-DATE OF “The Seven Stages in Tumble Polishing Stones” – One Less Stage

A Series of Posts called “The Seven Stages in Tumble Polishing Stones” was begun in November 2017. It went through, step-by-step, the seven stages of how I polish stones using a tumbler and 4lb barrel. A set of 40 beach stones collected from Riverton were used to illustrate each stage. The first Post in the Series is here, while a summary can be found as #2 in “Six Past TumbleStone Posts of Interest to Beginning Tumble Polishers”. However, changes in the grits and polish supplied by the Rotorua Lapidary Rock and Mineral Store in late 2020 mean that now only six stages are required instead of seven, and a couple of other minor changes have occurred.

About six months ago, Rotorua Lapidary changed the silicon carbide grit and tin oxide polish that they stock. Before that, they stocked 100, 220 and 320 grit along with pre-polish and pro-polish tin oxide powder. Now, however, the store stocks 80/100, 220 and 400 silicon carbide grit and only one grade of tin oxide recommended for tumble polishing (called “Tumble Polish”). So there are three main changes. First, the coarse grit size 100 grit has been replaced by 80/100, which means the latter contains a slightly wider size range, the overall effect being that it is slightly coarser. To all intents and purposes, this is not a significant change (though it will make the price lower). The second main change is that 320 grit has been replaced with a finer 400 grit. I asked Rotorua Lapidary by email why this change was made and they replied: We have a new supplier and they don’t stock 320 grit, 400 grit is finer therefore beneficial when working towards the polishing process. The third main change is that two grades of tin oxide polish powder have been replaced with one polish powder. In response to my inquiry about this change, Rotorua Lapidary stated: The new supplier has a one step polishing product which we trialled very successfully, and have every confidence in supplying the market... The tumble polish is still the same type of polish as the pre and pro polish only it is slightly finer in micron – with using 400 grit (which is finer) instead of 320 grit you can eliminate the pre polish process. So the main effects of the second and third changes are to reduce the number of stages required by one, along with a small reduction in the overall costs.  

My original seven stages in tumble polished stones were: Stage One = Stone collection (not usually included in accounts of tumble polishing). Stage Two = About a week in 100 mesh silicon carbide grit followed by a soap wash for a few hours. Stage Three = One week in 220 mesh silicon carbide grit followed by a soap wash. Stage Four = 320 silicon carbide grit followed by a soap wash. Stage Five = Tumbling in a tin oxide “Pre-Polish” powder (five microns in size) for three to five days, followed again by a few hours soap tumble. Stage Six = The “Pro-Polish” tumble, using tin oxide powder of one micron size, for at least one week. Stage Seven = A “burnishing” tumble for a week in borax.

My up-dated stages are now reduced to six, as follows: Stage One = Stone collection. Stage Two = About a week in 80/100 mesh silicon carbide grit followed by a soap wash for a few hours. Stage Three = One week in 220 mesh silicon carbide grit followed by a soap wash. Stage Four = 400 silicon carbide grit followed by a soap wash. Stage Five = Tumbling in “tumble polish” powder for at least one week. Stage Six = A “burnishing” tumble for between two and seven days in borax. See the Summary Table below.

Summary Table

STAGEORIGINAL SEVENUP-DATED SIX
ONEStone CollectionStone Collection
TWO100 grit, 7+ days80/100 grit, 7+ days
THREE220 grit, 7+ days220 grit, 7+ days
FOUR320 grit, 7+ days400 grit, 7+ days
FIVEPre-polish, 3-5 daysTumble Polish, 7+ days
SIX Pro-polish, 7+ daysBurnishing, 2-7 days
SEVENBurnishing, 7 days
Table Notes: a) Tumbles in soap follow each stage (except the last). b) “7+ days” means “7 days or longer”. c) I now sometimes do a shorter final burnishing stage depending on how bright the polished stones are.

Currently I am using 400 grit for tumble polishing (as I ran out of 320 grit) but as I still have some stocks of pre-polish and pro-polish powder I have not yet moved to the six-stage process.

Note that different people have developed different stages for tumble polishing which use different grit sizes etc. What is common to them all is the use of a coarse grit first (provided it is needed – smooth beach stones can be started with a finer grit), followed by a medium-to-fine grit, then a pre-polish stage using very fine grit or a pre-polish powder, then finally the polish stage. See, for example, the Gold Rush Trading Post’s stages and those of Mama’s Minerals.

UP-DATE OF “What Do I Need to Start Tumble Polishing Stones Myself? And What Will It Cost Me?” Changing Prices, New Grits and Polish

The two-part Post “What Do I Need to Start Tumble Polishing Stones Myself? And What Will It Cost Me?” was originally done by me three years ago in April 2018. However, prices have changed since then, as have the grades of grits and polish that are stocked by my supplier. The Covid-19 pandemic has also disrupted international trade and shipping. So I updated the original Post, setting out the main changes in light green. The edited Post is here.

My supplier is the Rotorua Lapidary Rock and Mineral Supplies Ltd. I bought my first tumbler and grit etc. from them and find that they provide excellent service and very fast dispatch. Other people have supported this view. If their website shows they are out of something, it’s worth contacting them by phone or email as they may simply not have listed it yet or need to re-package it from bulk supplies.

About six months ago, Rotorua Lapidary changed the silicon carbide grit and tin oxide polish that they stock. Before that, they stocked 100, 220 and 320 grit along with pre-polish and pro-polish tin oxide. All my Posts about my own tumble polishing on this Blog reflected the use of these five “stages”. Now, however, Rotorua Lapidary stock 80/100, 220 and 400 silicon carbide grit and only one grade of tin oxide recommended for tumble polishing called “Tumble Polish” (they also have a very expensive “Pure Tin Oxide”). In response to my inquiries in November 2020 about these changes, Colin Simmons advised me:

We have a new supplier and they don’t stock 320 grit, 400 grit is finer therefore beneficial when working towards the polishing process. The new supplier has a one step polishing product which we trialled very successfully, and have every confidence in supplying the market The tumble polish is still the same type of polish as the pre and pro polish only it is slightly finer in micron – with using 400 grit (which is finer) instead of 320 grit you can eliminate the pre polish process.

I still have stocks of everything except 320 grit so I am now using the 400 grit instead. I am still using both pre and pro-polish and will probably do so until they run out. I may try skipping the pre-polish as an experiment, but have yet to do so.

Note: You may wonder about the difference between “80/100” and “100” silicon carbide grit. As Rocktumbler.com notes, the grit size relates to the size of the particles of grit, with grit size 80 being 250 microns, size 100 being 149 microns, size 220 being 68 microns, size 325 being 44 microns, size 400 being 37 microns and size 600 being 20 microns. A “micron” is 1/1,000,000th of a meter, or 1/1000th of a millimeter. So a particle of 60 grit being 250 microns across is about 250/1000th or 1/4 millimeter across. Ungraded grits, or grits within a grade range, do not require the same level of processing needed for specifically graded grits. That allows such grits to be sold for a lower price than graded grits. Silicon carbide sold as “80/100″grit would have a range of particle sizes smaller than 80 grit (250 microns) but larger than 100 grit (149 microns).

How Much Does Tumbling Wear Away Trace Worm Cast Fossils?

Tumble polishing fossilised worm cast stones has a different aim from polishing other stones because it is important to preserve the traces on the surfaces of the stones. Tumble polishing is normally a process involving the smoothing of a stone by wearing away its outer layer. Sharp edges, pits and nicks in a stone can be removed by tumbling in a coarse grit. But such a tumble for a worm cast stone may very well destroy what makes the stone interesting.

For this reason, I ignore any “imperfections” in the stone itself and seek solely to polish the trace. In order to do this, I tumble worm cast stones once in 320 grit, the finest (least coarse) grit that I normally use, before putting them through a pre-polish then pro-polish tumble. NOTE: (March 2021) Due to a change in the grit size sold by my supplier, I now use 400 grit.

The other day, a question arose in my mind. How much does that 320 grit tumble change or even damage a worm cast trace? I don’t know for sure, though I have had no reason so far to think it is a problem. But why not take a closer look to find out? So I decided to photograph some fossilised worm cast stones before and after a 320 grit tumble, so I could see any changes.

I chose 40 worm cast stones of varying sizes, colours and types. I then arranged them by size, in groups of four, and took photos of them, front and back, before tumbling them for a week in 320 grit.

 I wet the stones for these photos so that the traces would show better. The following are the first eight stones:

1-4 a before
One side of Stones #1 – #4, before 320 grit tumble.
1-4 b before
Other side of Stones #1 – #4, before 320 grit tumble.
5-8 a before
One side of Stones #5 – #8, before 320 grit tumble.
5-8 b before
Other side of Stones #5 – #8, before 320 grit tumble.

After the 320 tumble in late March/early April, these stones looked like this:

1-4 a after
One side of Stones #1 – #4, after 320 grit tumble.
1-4 b after
Other side of Stones #1 – #4, after 320 grit tumble.
5-8 a after
One side of Stones #5 – #8, after 320 grit tumble.
5-8 b after
Other side of Stones #5 – #8, after 320 grit tumble.

I next compared the before and after photos of each stone in order to gain an idea of the effects of the 320 grit tumble. The next Post explains the differences for Stones #1 to #8 (not yet available).

Six Past TumbleStone Posts of Interest to Beginning Tumble Polishers

1) What Do I Need to Start Tumble Polishing Stones Myself? And What Will It Cost Me?

This two part series sets out what a beginning tumble polisher needs and how much it will cost. The costs and details reflect that I live in New Zealand, and the prices were accurate at the time of writing, April 2018. The account aims to be fairly thorough and realistic. Part One covers: The Tumbler; The Siting of the Tumbler; Silicon Carbide Grit; Grit Storage and Tablespoon Measuring; and Disposal of Slurry. Part Two covers: Tin Oxide Polish Powder; Polish Powder Storage and Mixing; Plastic Beads and Bead Storage; Soap for Cleaning and Burnishing; Sieves and Buckets; and Miscellaneous Useful Items.

NOTE: Due to changes in the supply of grit and polish (late 2020), these Posts have been revised (the changed text in the original Posts are in light green). Background details can be found in UP-DATE OF “What Do I Need to Start Tumble Polishing Stones Myself? And What Will It Cost Me?” Changing Prices, New Grits and Polish.  

2) The Seven Stages in Tumble Polishing Stones

This at-present-incomplete Series goes through, step-by-step, the seven stages of polishing stones using a tumbler and 4lb barrel. A set of 40 beach stones collected from Riverton are used to illustrate each stage. Lots of photos show all the steps involved, often following individual stones (the stones are numbered 1 to 40). Stage One is Stone Collection (not usually included in accounts of tumble polishing).  Stage Two is tumbling the stones for about a week in 100 mesh silicon carbide grit, then tumbling them in a soap wash for a few hours. Stage Three involves one week tumbling using 220 mesh silicon carbide grit, followed by a soap wash. Stage Four is the same procedure with 320 silicon carbide grit. Stage Five involves tumbling the stones in a tin oxide “Pre-Polish” powder (five microns in size) for three to five days, followed again by a few hours soap tumble. Stage Six is the “Pro-Polish” tumble, using tin oxide powder of one micron size, for at least one week. Stage Seven is a “burnishing” tumble for a week in borax. Inspecting and sorting of the stones also take place after each Stage.

NOTE: Due to changes in the supply of grit and polish (late 2020), six stages are now used – details can be found in UP-DATE OF “The Seven Stages in Tumble Polishing Stones” – One Less Stage.

Posts in the original Series to date are:

Stage One, Stone Collection, Riverton, 2-6 November 2017 – Topics include walking the beach, selecting stones, clothing, and equipment.

The Selected 40 Stones – Photos of the rough stones, dry and wet, and brief descriptions.

Stage Two, 100 Grit Tumble, 15-25 November 2017 – Step-by-step account of preparing the barrel and then emptying it after the tumble, disposal of slurry, cleaning of equipment, undertaking a soap wash afterwards, and finally determining weight loss of stones.

The Stones After 100 Grit and Their “Inspection” and “Sorting” Before Stage Three – Photos of the stones are presented after they have been through the 100 grit tumble, then an account is provided of the inspection of the stones, identifying the types of chips and holes and other “imperfections”.

Stage Three, 220 Grit Tumble, 4-13 December 2017 – This Post not only goes through the practicalities involved with the 220 grit tumble but also the inspection of the stones afterwards. 

Stage Four, 320 Grit Tumble, 10-20 March 2018 – A repeat of the steps involved in Stages Two and Three but this time with 320 silicon carbide grit.

The Stones After 320 Grit and Their “Inspection” and “Sorting” Before Stage Five – Some minor issues with a number of stones are presented, illustrated with photos.

Stage Five, Pre-Polish Tumble, 28 August to 3 September 2018 – Includes an account of preparing the tumble and the soap wash afterwards.

The Stones After Pre-Polish and Their “Inspection” and “Sorting” Before Stage Six – This Post includes photos showing all 40 stones as they looked upon initial collection from the beach at Riverton and then upon completion of Stage Five, Pre-Polish, with the stones sitting on graph paper for size comparisons. 

Stage Six, Pro-Polish Tumble, 1 October to 15 October 2018 – An account of tumbling in 1-micron Pro-Polish tin oxide powder.

Stage Seven, Borax Burnishing Tumble, 15 October to 25 October 2018 – Instead of undergoing a short soap wash after the Pro-Polish tumble, the stones are treated to at least one week’s tumbling in borax to help bring out the shine a little more. A summary of the tumbling stages and times is provided at the end of this Post.

The End Result, Stones One to Five – This Post examines how the first five of the 40 Riverton stones have emerged from the polishing process, comparing them with how they looked as rough stones fresh from the beach. Each stone is discussed and close-up photos are provided of their textures, colours and patterns.

The remaining Posts to date are How Stones Six to Ten Have Polished and The Fate of Stones 11 to 15. To Be Continued…

3) The Best Rock Tumbling Book Around – “Modern Rock Tumbling” by Steve Hart (2008)

I read the book referred to in this Post after only a couple of weeks of my own tumbling venture and found it directly relevant and immediately useful. It remains the best I have come across. It is available both as a “real” (paper) book and an e-book.

4) Sources of Detailed Instructions for Tumble Polishing Stones

This Post is a list of seven sources I have found useful for the beginning (and also for the not-so-novice) rock tumbler. They share a number of things in common but often have their own unique ideas or pieces of advice.

5) How Stones Tumble in a Rotary Tumbler

A video is referred to in this Post showing the tumbling action when a barrel is too full or not full enough. A great help in understanding why a barrel should not have too many stones in it!

6) My New Sorting Container for Stones at Different Stages of Tumble Polishing

A good way to store stones which are destined for different stages of tumbling is presented in this Post, so you can group them until you have enough for a barrel load. This also enables you to inspect stones after a tumble and feel free to set aside those that need to repeat a stage.