March 2019 Stone Collecting Trip to Southern New Zealand – Gemstone Beach, from the Car Park to the Waimeamea River Mouth

Gemstone Beach, near Orepuki on the south coast, “is in a constant state of change with the surface changing from sand to stones with the storms and tides” (Southland website). This year, I spent three weeks in March in Southland, collecting beach stones, and I made five visits to Gemstone Beach.  This year the beach offered lots and lots of good stones, maybe the most I have seen. As a result, I collected probably about 18 kilograms of stones from there to take home to polish. These included over 100 stones with fossil worm casts.

Gemstone Beach is just a kilometre from Orepuki, a small village on a sparsely settled part of the southern coast of New Zealand. Gold was mined in the district during the last two decades of the nineteenth century, and in the 1880s the southernmost Chinese settlement in the world was to be found there. It is said that semi-precious gems such as garnet, sapphire, jasper, quartz and semi-nephrite can be found on Gemstone Beach, although some of these are very rare. Quartz and jasper are reasonably common, and you can sometimes find hydrogrossular garnet stones and argillite stones containing fossil worm casts.

Orepuki location
Location of Orepuki and Gemstone Beach on the Southland coast

TAUNOA STREAM

When you initially walk down from the car park and emerge onto Gemstone Beach (see map below), it can be a real disappointment if you’re expecting to see a lot of great stones. The immediate area is usually primarily sand, with only a handful of widely-spaced stones around. [NOTE: In the three years since I wrote this, there have been many times when there has been lots of stones on this part of the beach. They come and go from time to time.] Just to the left is a small (un-named) stream which many people go to in order to see if there are interesting stones there but it also sometimes disappoints.

Gemstone Beach entrance mapcarta
Entrance area of Gemstone Beach – from Mapcarta

This photo (below), taken by me in February 2018, shows a family on the beach just a few metres away from the car park. Notice the wide scattering of stones – usually there are less than 10 per cent of this number in this area. The two people in the background are looking towards the un-named stream.

feb 2018

When you come onto the beach from the car park, about 200 metres to your right (in a north-west direction) is a stream that flows across the beach to the sea, Taunoa Stream (see map above). At times the depth of the stream water can be high enough to dissuade anyone wearing shoes from crossing, unless they take their shoes off. However, it is further along the beach beyond this stream that the stones will be found. At high tide, it can be impossible to ford the Taunoa Stream because of the waves rushing in to the foot of the nearby cliff. This year, the stream bed was full of stones, the water having swept the covering of sand from them. A significant part of my second visit to Gemstone Beach this month (March) was spent examining the stones in the stream.   

NORTH-WEST OF TAUNOA STREAM

At times, one has to walk a long way (maybe 200 or 300 metres) past the Taunoa Stream to find stones (see photo below, left). This year, after only about 100 metres past the stream, large drifts of stones covered the beach (below, right). 

And the stones were scattered right up to the cliff face, unlike at other times when I have visited.

Each drift of stones on the beach consisted of a good layer of pebbles, some on the small side but many of a good polish-able size.

THE WAIMEAMEA RIVER MOUTH

About one kilometre along the beach from the Taunoa Stream is the mouth of the small Waimeamea River.

Currently – and this was also the case when I was there in September 2018 – there is a large bank of stones along the beach, starting about 400 metres before the Waimeamea River mouth and continuing as far along the beach as I could see (some kilometres). The bank is quite high, maybe four or five metres in places, and up to 50 metres wide. Some of the stones here are bigger than those closer to Taunoa Stream, too big for my tumble polish barrels. But the bulk of them are much smaller, just right for the tumbler.

The stone bank holds back the waters of the river, preventing them from reaching the sea, creating a lagoon running parallel to the coast. However, water seeps under the stones to meet the incoming waves, the stones start to collapse, and eventually a channel appears for the river to flow out, as I had observed in September 2018.

THREE ENCOUNTERS

Birds are perhaps the most common wildlife encountered on southern beaches. At the mouth of the Waimeamea River, I walked past some seagulls and terns, trying hard not to disturb them:

Further back down the beach, near the Taunoa Stream, in my second encounter, I met up with Maike and Martin, a young couple from Germany on holiday in the South Island. They were picking up interesting stones and asked me how they could get them polished. I volunteered to do a batch for them. I also gave them a short break from living out of their car, inviting them back to the crib at Riverton. Below are some of the stones I am in the process of polishing for them.

See this Post to see how these stones looked after polishing.

My third encounter, from a distance, was with some horse riders, glimpsed as I left Gemstone Beach for the last time during this series of visits. They were moving towards the car park from the south-east of the beach, from the direction of Monkey Island. There were four riders on horses, one horse carrying a child being led, and a wagon drawn by two horses.


See the later Post Some “Gems” from Gemstone Beach to see how a batch of 95 stones I collected turned out after polishing.

South Island Stone Collecting Trip, Part Two – Riverton to Kaikoura

Continued from Part One.

Next stop was Riverton at the very bottom of the South Island, where we were based for the next three weeks – many thanks to Helen and Ray for the generous use of their holiday home. We collected many beach stones from the Riverton area and from nearby Gemstone Beach at Orepuki. The weather was cool and windy at times but not bad enough to discourage stone collecting. We met a handful of fellow stone collectors at Gemstone Beach and exchanged greetings and stories. We also spotted dolphins swimming off the beaches at Riverton.  

While based at Riverton, we took a day trip eastwards to Waipapa Point, Slope Point and Curio Bay, the latter being well known for its petrified forest that is uncovered at each low tide.

One day we walked the Long Hilly Track through an old gold mining area near Orepuki. This included part of the 40 kilometre long Port’s water race, built in the 1870s and 1880s with the help of Chinese miners. We visited the Riverton Museum and found an excellent display on the Chinese goldminers. On a visit to the Southland Museum in Invercargill, we saw a natural history room that included a lot of local geological displays and information.

On the trip north, on the way home, we stopped off to see the Moeraki Boulders in North Otago. Some sea mist came down even though it was the middle of the day. The boulders are large spherical rocks, concretions that have been exposed through shoreline erosion from coastal cliffs. They consist of mud, fine silt and clay, cemented by calcite. The degree of cementation varies from being relatively weak in the interior of a boulder to quite hard at its outside rim. The boulders are cracked and eventually fall apart after having been exposed for some time. 

A day was spent at Birdlings Flat, near Christchurch, where we collected quite a few stones for polishing. We walked to the point where the stony beach meets the volcanic mass of Banks Peninsula, briefly disturbing a resting seal. The tide was low enough for us to look at the stones in the small bay past the seal. 

We also took the opportunity to visit Akaroa on Banks Peninsula where we saw thick clouds rolling slowly down over the hills.

The road further up the east coast of the South Island, through Kaikoura, was open – it had to be rebuilt after the November 2016 magnitude 7.8 earthquake as well as additional landslides caused by recent storms. So we were able to view the earthquake aftermath, including the land that been raised out of the sea. Some parts of the coast were uplifted by six metres. One of the places we visited on the Kaikoura peninsula was Point Kean, well-known for its seal colony. A large area of many hectares/acres now lies dry where it once was under the sea. 

Then it was home across Cook Strait, a choppy but not uncomfortable crossing.

 

South Island Stone Collecting Trip, Part One – Oparara Basin to Lake Tekapo

I have recently returned from a few weeks in the South Island of New Zealand, travelling by car, collecting stones from places like Charleston, Riverton, Orepuki and Birdlings Flat and visiting interesting landscapes like the limestone caves and arches of the Oparara Basin (north of Karamea), Arthurs Pass, Lakes Pukaki and Tekapo, Curio Bay, Waipapa Point, the Moeraki boulders, and the post-earthquake Kaikoura coast. 

One of the first places we stayed at was Karamea in the north Buller region of the West Coast. From there we drove the narrow gravel road north to the Oparara Basin and walked to the Oparara Arch, Moria Gate and other limestone caves and landforms. 

I collected a small number of limestone stones from the Oparara River – they appear to have fossilised shells in them.

Going south along the West Coast, beyond Westport is the town of Charleston and its small twin bays, Constant Bay and Joyce Bay. Constant Bay was named after the ketch “Constant” whose Captain, Charles Bonner, in the mid 1860s managed to squeeze the boat into into the tiny bay, bringing supplies for the town that had sprung up due to the discovery of gold. The rocks that line the shore of these bays have large veins of quartz with masses of mica in them. At the northern end of Joyce Bay we came across of pocket of stones and rocks from a vein that must have been almost pure mica. We chose one small boulder-sized rock to bring home.

There is so much mica in the rocks around Constant and Joyce Bays that the sea sparkles with it.

One hundred kilometres south of Charleston is Kumara, where we undertook a short walk to see Londonderry Rock.  This enormous 4000 tonne glacial erratic was dislodged by miners while sluicing for gold in the early 1880s. As noted on the information panel at the start of the walk, local legend has it that when it was dislodged from its position it caused earthquake-like shudders that stopped the clock in the post office! 

Driving across Arthur’s Pass, we passed Castle Hill, Omarama and Lakes Pukaki and Tekapo.

Continued in Part Two.

“Australian and New Zealand Gemstones: How and Where to Find Them” edited by Bill Myatt (1972)

This large hardcover book was published in 1972 by Paul Hamlyn – it measures only 24cm by 19 cm but its 511 pages makes for a thickness of 5 cm. It had a nice sized font which makes easy reading, is well-illustrated and well-written, and is a mine of detailed information written for the interested layperson (only some of which is dated).

Aust NZ Gemstones cover

I obtained my second-hand copy, in excellent condition, from K-books in Scarborough, Ontario, Canada, through online retailer Abebooks, for just over NZ$50 (shipping included), with only 2 weeks between ordering and arrival.

The book is made up of four main sections: “General Information” pages 9-59, including fossicking methods, mining law and making jewelry (there is great advice on fossicking in the Australian outback, where safety considerations are significant); “Geology” pages 61-137 (with pages 123-130 being on New Zealand); “Gemstone Identification” pages 139-283 (very readable text on the major types, with only the rare black and white photo but with a 32 colour plate section showing many rock types in their natural form); “Gemstone Localities” pages 286-503 including 35 high quality colour map guides to main gem-bearing areas. New Zealand localities are discussed in pages 430-448 and 497-503, sections written by A. Niethe (“New Zealand Gemstones”), W.F. Heinz (“Gold”) and M. Jepsen (“Thermal Regions”). There are entries on the following areas: Coromandel Peninsula, East Coast, Northland, Canterbury, Dunedin, Greymouth, Invercargill, Nelson, and Oamaru. Detailed comments are made of where certain types of rocks have been found, as well as on very practical topics such as road conditions and accommodation in these areas. Of course, most of this information is now out-of-date, written over 40 years ago, but it provides great starting-points for the contemporary rockhound as well as much interesting historical material.

The publisher aimed to produce “a comprehensive book on Australian and New Zealand Gemstones, suitable for the ordinary reader”, with the Localities section presented as “the most detailed account ever attempted”. Lapidary, Gem and Mineral Clubs contributed significantly to the book, as did academic and technical experts on geology and minerals – the result was outstanding and much of its value has not been lost over the decades.