Visiting the Beach at McCracken’s Rest near Orepuki

I spent a few days based in Riverton early in May, on a stone collection trip. Two of my aims were to spend more time on Gemstone Beach and to explore the beach further to the west, near a place called McCracken’s Rest. I took an extra suitcase down with me so that I could carry more stones home with me than I usually do on the plane. I ended up bringing back 26.5 kgs of carefully selected beach pebbles.

Day One at Riverton saw me drive out to McCracken’s Rest, 36 kilometres from Riverton. This is a roadside lay-by and viewpoint eight kilometres west of Orepuki and Gemstone Beach. 

On YouTube is this clip which gives a good sense of the roadside lay-by (although at 1:24 Stewart Island is misidentified – it is in fact well hidden in the mist – the piece of land referred to as Stewart Island is really the headland between Monkey Island and Cosy Nook, the headland just south of Orepuki – see the third last photo, bottom left, in the group below).  

The beach between Orepuki and McCracken’s lies below cliffs all the way along so access is very difficult. At the viewpoint at McCracken’s Rest, I hopped over the fence and carefully made my way down the steep slope to the beach below. 

The beach at McCracken’s Rest is similar to the beach further south-east, back towards Gemstone Bach and the Waimeamea Lagoon. There is a low bank of stones above the high tide mark, along with a wide scattering of drift wood. Closer to the waves, there are sandy patches and drifts of smaller stones.

I spent two and a half hours there – the day was largely fine and with little wind, which allowed the sandflies to be active. I slowly walked (and fossicked) just over a kilometre north-westwards to the start of the Te Waewae Lagoon (created by the Waiau River trying to find a path to the sea). The actual mouth of the Waiau River can vary in position along this gravel bar, depending on the countervailing forces of the river’s flow and the stones thrown up by the sea.

There seemed to be more slightly larger and less rounded stones here than at Gemstone Beach, and I did not see as many colourful ones. I also found no hydrogrossular garnets although there were fossil worm cast stones.

I collected quite a few stones on the beach but later discarded many of them after careful re-examination. This was partly because I found much better stones later at Gemstone Beach and on the Riverton beaches. I still ended up bringing home 2.3 kilograms of stones from the beach between McCracken’s Rest and Te Waewae Lagoon.

Before returning to Riverton, I drove up to Fishing Camp Road, about two and a half kilometres north-west of McCracken’s Rest, and drove along it to the shores of the Te Waewae Lagoon. This brought me to the landward side of the lagoon, near a handful of fisher huts and a boat ramp. The stones there were dirty and slimy and uninteresting – but one could gaze across the lagoon at the gravel bar separating the lagoon from the sea and see the kind of interesting ones to be found between there and Gemstone Beach.

Nine Milestones at Journey’s End

For a number of years before I retired from the University of Waikato, I assisted with the supervision of Gemma Piercy-Cameron’s PhD thesis. Gemma was finally successful in completing her grand project, Baristas: The Artisan Precariat, a few months ago. Currently, Gemma is a Lecturer in Sociology and Social Policy at the University of Waikato (see her Staff Profile). I presented her with nine milestones to mark her accomplishment.

The following letter accompanied Gemma’s milestones (photos added here):

Why Nine Stones?
Nine is seen to have philosophical significance, due to its unique numerical attributes. In the Hebrew tradition, for instance, Nine represents truth, since it reproduces itself when multiplied. Multiply any number by 9, then add the resulting digits and reduce them to a single digit, it always becomes a 9 again, e.g., 6 x 9 = 54, 5 + 4 = 9; 23 x 9 = 207, 2 + 0 + 7 = 9. Another attribute of Nine is that when added to any other number and then that number is reduced to a single digit, it always comes back to itself, as if nothing was added at all. For example, 5 + 9 = 14, 1 + 4 = 5; 7 + 9 = 16, 1 + 6 = 7. Nine is the Triple Triad, consisting of three times three, and so is seen as symbolic of completion, fulfillment, attainment, the beginning and the end, the ultimate whole number. Appropriate to recognise the completion of a PhD!

Stone #1 “Coffee”

Unknown type, collected at Riverton (Southland) July 2017, polishing completed September 2017. Polishing brought out the creamy swirl that reminded me so strongly of coffee and latte art that I knew it was destined for you.

Stone #2 “Positioned Sparkle”

Mica-rich pegmatite rock, collected at Joyce Bay (near Charleston, Buller District) March 2017, unpolished. Your thesis reflects who you are, and sparkles as it is turned to be viewed from different positions. Different things will be seen in it depending on who views it from which position.

Stone #3 “Effort”

Mudstone, collected at Riverton July 2017, polishing completed September 2017. This stone started millions of years ago as a number of sediment layers, being compressed by weight and heat. Your thesis consists of layers of effort and activity, building on each other, one layer being the foundation for the other. Over time, effort becomes more focused, refined, productive, until completion is reached.

003g
Henderson Bay, Riverton

Stone #4 “Complexity”

Jasper, with silica, collected at Riverton February 2018, polishing completed August 2018. Reality is complex and resists analysis. Analysis is hard labour.

Stone #5 “Depth”

Pale green Quartzite, collected at Orepuki (Southland), April 2016, polishing completed November 2017. Depth of understanding and insight is gained by multi-method qualitative research.

Stone #6 “Found Worthy”

Banded Agate, collected on Birdlings Flat (Canterbury) June 2016, polishing completed September 2016. Agate is formed from quartz crystals growing in layers so small they can barely be seen. The layers build up to fill cavities in sediments left by gas bubbles in volcanic rocks. This particular banded agate is very unusual (the only one of its kind I have found) – when held up to the light, it is apparent that the bands are not smooth but have intricate and delicate lace-like waves in them. This stone will have originated in the Alps, been washed down a Canterbury river, and swept along the coast to be deposited on Birdlings Flat which abuts Banks Peninsula. Your thesis has survived close examination in the light of others’ assessments, and has been found to be worthy of scholarly esteem.

Stone #7 “Patterns”

Unknown type (possibly a type of schist?), collected at Riverton February 2018, polishing completed August 2018. Research identifies patterns and layers and makes sense of them for others.

Stone #8 “It takes time to construct an interesting story”

Argillite, a hardened mudstone, with fossil worm casts, collected at Orepuki February 2018, polishing completed August 2018. This argillite started as mud under the sea 250-280 million years ago. The interesting linear features were left behind by ancient worms who had ingested lighter coloured mud. All pieces of scholarly writing, including your thesis, are like fossils of your thoughts at a particular period of time, persisting in existence even as you go on to other thoughts and activities.

Stone #9 “Well Travelled and Wide Ranging”

Quartzite, stained with iron, collected at Budleigh Salterton (Devon, England) May 2018, polishing completed August 2018. These Devon stones are identical to rocks found in Brittany in France. Some 200-250 million years ago, Brittany was mountainous and rivers drained from it northwards across the Triassic desert, across what was to become the English Channel. The quartzite rocks were tumbled into pebbles and eventually deposited as pebble beds outcropping on cliffs at the beach of Budleigh Salterton village. Good PhD research takes time, has gone places, and has a broad base of experience and reflective thought.

March 2019 Stone Collecting Trip to Southern New Zealand – Gemstone Beach, from the Car Park to the Waimeamea River Mouth

Gemstone Beach, near Orepuki on the south coast, “is in a constant state of change with the surface changing from sand to stones with the storms and tides” (Southland website). This year, I spent three weeks in March in Southland, collecting beach stones, and I made five visits to Gemstone Beach.  This year the beach offered lots and lots of good stones, maybe the most I have seen. As a result, I collected probably about 18 kilograms of stones from there to take home to polish. These included over 100 stones with fossil worm casts.

Gemstone Beach is just a kilometre from Orepuki, a small village on a sparsely settled part of the southern coast of New Zealand. Gold was mined in the district during the last two decades of the nineteenth century, and in the 1880s the southernmost Chinese settlement in the world was to be found there. It is said that semi-precious gems such as garnet, sapphire, jasper, quartz and semi-nephrite can be found on Gemstone Beach, although some of these are very rare. Quartz and jasper are reasonably common, and you can sometimes find hydrogrossular garnet stones and argillite stones containing fossil worm casts.

Orepuki location
Location of Orepuki and Gemstone Beach on the Southland coast

TAUNOA STREAM

When you initially walk down from the car park and emerge onto Gemstone Beach (see map below), it can be a real disappointment if you’re expecting to see a lot of great stones. The immediate area is usually primarily sand, with only a handful of widely-spaced stones around. [NOTE: In the three years since I wrote this, there have been many times when there has been lots of stones on this part of the beach. They come and go from time to time.] Just to the left is a small (un-named) stream which many people go to in order to see if there are interesting stones there but it also sometimes disappoints.

Gemstone Beach entrance mapcarta
Entrance area of Gemstone Beach – from Mapcarta

This photo (below), taken by me in February 2018, shows a family on the beach just a few metres away from the car park. Notice the wide scattering of stones – usually there are less than 10 per cent of this number in this area. The two people in the background are looking towards the un-named stream.

feb 2018

When you come onto the beach from the car park, about 200 metres to your right (in a north-west direction) is a stream that flows across the beach to the sea, Taunoa Stream (see map above). At times the depth of the stream water can be high enough to dissuade anyone wearing shoes from crossing, unless they take their shoes off. However, it is further along the beach beyond this stream that the stones will be found. At high tide, it can be impossible to ford the Taunoa Stream because of the waves rushing in to the foot of the nearby cliff. This year, the stream bed was full of stones, the water having swept the covering of sand from them. A significant part of my second visit to Gemstone Beach this month (March) was spent examining the stones in the stream.   

NORTH-WEST OF TAUNOA STREAM

At times, one has to walk a long way (maybe 200 or 300 metres) past the Taunoa Stream to find stones (see photo below, left). This year, after only about 100 metres past the stream, large drifts of stones covered the beach (below, right). 

And the stones were scattered right up to the cliff face, unlike at other times when I have visited.

Each drift of stones on the beach consisted of a good layer of pebbles, some on the small side but many of a good polish-able size.

THE WAIMEAMEA RIVER MOUTH

About one kilometre along the beach from the Taunoa Stream is the mouth of the small Waimeamea River.

Currently – and this was also the case when I was there in September 2018 – there is a large bank of stones along the beach, starting about 400 metres before the Waimeamea River mouth and continuing as far along the beach as I could see (some kilometres). The bank is quite high, maybe four or five metres in places, and up to 50 metres wide. Some of the stones here are bigger than those closer to Taunoa Stream, too big for my tumble polish barrels. But the bulk of them are much smaller, just right for the tumbler.

The stone bank holds back the waters of the river, preventing them from reaching the sea, creating a lagoon running parallel to the coast. However, water seeps under the stones to meet the incoming waves, the stones start to collapse, and eventually a channel appears for the river to flow out, as I had observed in September 2018.

THREE ENCOUNTERS

Birds are perhaps the most common wildlife encountered on southern beaches. At the mouth of the Waimeamea River, I walked past some seagulls and terns, trying hard not to disturb them:

Further back down the beach, near the Taunoa Stream, in my second encounter, I met up with Maike and Martin, a young couple from Germany on holiday in the South Island. They were picking up interesting stones and asked me how they could get them polished. I volunteered to do a batch for them. I also gave them a short break from living out of their car, inviting them back to the crib at Riverton. Below are some of the stones I am in the process of polishing for them.

See this Post to see how these stones looked after polishing.

My third encounter, from a distance, was with some horse riders, glimpsed as I left Gemstone Beach for the last time during this series of visits. They were moving towards the car park from the south-east of the beach, from the direction of Monkey Island. There were four riders on horses, one horse carrying a child being led, and a wagon drawn by two horses.


See the later Post Some “Gems” from Gemstone Beach to see how a batch of 95 stones I collected turned out after polishing.

TumbleStone Calendar 2019 – October, November and December

In October (above, left), the lone figure of my friend Ray walks ahead on Gemstone Beach as I take about five steps every five minutes. I am searching for the elusive hydrogrossulars, so shiny that tumble polishing usually does not improve them. November (above, middle) also features rocks that shine but this time it’s the large mica flakes in them that sparkle. Found at Joyce Bay on the West Coast of the South Island, one such rock sits in my lounge room, beside the fire. Finally, in December (above, right), we return again to Riverton, my favourite set of beaches where I have found some of my favourite stones.

Also see TumbleStone Calendar 2019, TumbleStone Calendar 2019 – February, March, April and May and TumbleStone Calendar 2019 – June, July, August and September.

 

TumbleStone Calendar 2019 – June, July, August and September

The June page for this calendar (above, left) has a photo of Kiritehere Beach, on the west coast of the North Island, which Petra and I visited in September 2018, and some of the rocks with monotis fossils that we found there. The rocks on this beach are full of these fossils. I have not tried to tumble polish them. Budleigh Salterton features on the July page (above, right). This village in Devon has a pebble beach full of red iron-stained quartzite stones from the cliffs nearby. We have visited there when we have been in Devon in the past three years. For more detail on Budleigh Salterton and its stones, see the comments on Stone #7 in the post on Twelve Stones, Part Three.

For August, one of my favourite stones appears, banded rhyolite. Stones of this type can be found on beaches along part of the south coast of the South Island, especially around Riverton and Orepuki. The beach featured on the August page is the beach past the Back Beach at Riverton (just beyond the end of the road). September’s beach is another one in the UK that Petra and I visited in 2018, Penmon Point on the Isle of Anglesey in Wales. There I found a black stone with interesting patterned fossils in it (I have not been able to identify the fossils), and a number of limestone pebbles also with fossil shells that are much fainter.

Also see TumbleStone Calendar 2019TumbleStone Calendar 2019 – February, March, April and May and TumbleStone Calendar 2019 – October, November and December.

TumbleStone Calendar 2019

Every year I produce a calendar as a Christmas gift for family and friends. I use the online site DiamondPhoto to produce these. For 2019, I compiled a calendar of polished stones and locations. The following is the Cover (Gemstone Beach, Orepuki) and the January page (Henderson Bay, Riverton, with close-ups of some of the stunning stones I have found there):

Also see TumbleStone Calendar 2019 – February, March, April and MayCalendar 2019 – June, July, August and September and TumbleStone Calendar 2019 – October, November and December.

Twelve Stones, Part Two

I recently presented 12 tumble-polished stones to Tony in appreciation for his support when I undertook work with him in the dairy industry. Part One of this series of Posts described Stones #1 to #3. This Post deals with the characteristics and origins of Stones #4, #5 and #6, and later Posts will examine Stones #7 to #12. 

These are the 12 stones:

1-6 stones 2227-12 stones 222

4) Stone #4 Pink Granite

This stone was found at Riverton in February 2018. Granite is a coarse-grained igneous rock, made up of quartz, feldspar and mica. Its grains are large enough to be seen by the unaided eye. Pink Granite is given its colour by a larger proportion of potassium feldspar. Granite is found exposed at various places on Stewart Island and the western part of the South Island. It can be seen along the coast between Colac Bay and Orepuki in Southland, and stones of Pink Granite can often be found on southern beaches. Click on the photos below to see their captions.

5) Stone #5 Finely Banded Rhyolite(?)

This stone was found at Orepuki, Southland, on Gemstone Beach in April 2016. I have collected a number of such stones before on southern beaches and find them fascinating as they conjure up the image of cosmic gas trails in faraway starfields. A fellow stone collector once told me they were Rhyolite but it is difficult to confirm this from the various online and published sources on Rhyolite, maybe due to the distinctive pattern on these particular stones.

Rhyolite is very similar in chemical composition to Granite. But while Granite has crystals that are generally easy to see, in Rhyolite the crystals are often too small to see. This is due to the more rapid cooling of the Rhyolite lava at the earth’s surface compared to granite’s slower cooling magma within the earth.

Examples of other Rhyolite stones found at Orepuki or Riverton:

Orepuki is a small village on a sparsely settled part of the southern coast. Gold was mined in the district during the last two decades of the nineteenth century, and in the 1880s the southernmost Chinese settlement in the world was to be found there. The beach just to the north of Orepuki is called Gemstone Beach – it is said that semi-precious gems such as garnet, sapphire, jasper, quartz and nephrite can be found on the beach, along with hydrogrossular stones and argillite stones containing fossil worm casts. (The garnets, sapphires and nephrite are extremely rare.) Gold can also be found in patches of black sand at low tide.

Location of Orepuki (source: Google Maps):

Orepuki location

6) Stone #6 Marble(?)

I found this stone also on a Riverton beach. I don’t know what type of stone this is, but it reminds me of Marble. Marble is formed out of limestone which is subjected to the heat and pressure of metamorphism. It is composed primarily of the mineral calcite and in its pure form is white. However, it can also contain other minerals, such as clay minerals, micas, quartz, pyrite, iron oxides, and graphite, which provide colouring. Veined and patterned Marble, as this stone could be, is often created when a pure white original Marble is cracked or shattered and the spaces between the fragments are filled with other materials.

Stones #7 to #9 are described in Part Three.

South Island Stone Collecting Trip, Part Two – Riverton to Kaikoura

Continued from Part One.

Next stop was Riverton at the very bottom of the South Island, where we were based for the next three weeks – many thanks to Helen and Ray for the generous use of their holiday home. We collected many beach stones from the Riverton area and from nearby Gemstone Beach at Orepuki. The weather was cool and windy at times but not bad enough to discourage stone collecting. We met a handful of fellow stone collectors at Gemstone Beach and exchanged greetings and stories. We also spotted dolphins swimming off the beaches at Riverton.  

While based at Riverton, we took a day trip eastwards to Waipapa Point, Slope Point and Curio Bay, the latter being well known for its petrified forest that is uncovered at each low tide.

One day we walked the Long Hilly Track through an old gold mining area near Orepuki. This included part of the 40 kilometre long Port’s water race, built in the 1870s and 1880s with the help of Chinese miners. We visited the Riverton Museum and found an excellent display on the Chinese goldminers. On a visit to the Southland Museum in Invercargill, we saw a natural history room that included a lot of local geological displays and information.

On the trip north, on the way home, we stopped off to see the Moeraki Boulders in North Otago. Some sea mist came down even though it was the middle of the day. The boulders are large spherical rocks, concretions that have been exposed through shoreline erosion from coastal cliffs. They consist of mud, fine silt and clay, cemented by calcite. The degree of cementation varies from being relatively weak in the interior of a boulder to quite hard at its outside rim. The boulders are cracked and eventually fall apart after having been exposed for some time. 

A day was spent at Birdlings Flat, near Christchurch, where we collected quite a few stones for polishing. We walked to the point where the stony beach meets the volcanic mass of Banks Peninsula, briefly disturbing a resting seal. The tide was low enough for us to look at the stones in the small bay past the seal. 

We also took the opportunity to visit Akaroa on Banks Peninsula where we saw thick clouds rolling slowly down over the hills.

The road further up the east coast of the South Island, through Kaikoura, was open – it had to be rebuilt after the November 2016 magnitude 7.8 earthquake as well as additional landslides caused by recent storms. So we were able to view the earthquake aftermath, including the land that been raised out of the sea. Some parts of the coast were uplifted by six metres. One of the places we visited on the Kaikoura peninsula was Point Kean, well-known for its seal colony. A large area of many hectares/acres now lies dry where it once was under the sea. 

Then it was home across Cook Strait, a choppy but not uncomfortable crossing.

 

Field Trip to Southern Coast of South Island

I have recently returned from spending a week based in Riverton, visiting beaches in the area to collect stones for polishing. I brought home a total of 23 kgs of stones (14 kgs of which were posted) from six different beaches. The main collection sites were a handful of Riverton beaches as well as Orepuki, Bluff, and near Cosy Nook.